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GPS

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GPS Make & Model Recommendations + Tips

Only Garmin units are recommended, and only those with a robust 12V power input are preferred.
This limits the models to the old 60/76, the newer 78/79, the Montana 6x0, the Montana 7x0, and the Zumo XT.

Economical Hand-Held 12V units

Garmin 60/76Cx

Although discontinued by Garmin years ago, either one of these units is adequate for a Dual Sport ride. They have a 12V input for hard wiring to a bike. They can still be found on eBay, I would not pay over $100 for one.

ISSUES
The main issue with these antiques is that they only hold 20 tracks, which is not enough for most 2-day rides, and definitely not enough for a 3-day ride. The rider must come back and get more downloads after the 1st day. Other than that, they work fine. A 76 is still my main unit used to record new tracks for new rides. I do carry a 78 as backup when scouting.

Garmin 78

This was the go-to Hand-Held Garmin for many years but they discontinued this unit a year or so ago. New ones can still be found on eBay along with used units. I would not pay over $200 for one. The 78S has the unneeded electronic compass & barometer.

ISSUES
The only known serious issue with this unit is the sorting on the Track Manager Page. Unlike the old 76 which sorted Alphanumerically, they switched it to Proximity on the 78 which makes it much more difficult to find and turn ON just the tracks to Launch, then turn them back OFF and turn ON after Launch Tracks.

Garmin 79S

This is now the only new Hand-Held Garmin with a 12V power input. The “S” has the unneeded electronic compass & barometer but looks like there is no cheaper option without it. They retail for $300 but the going price is $250.

ISSUES
No review available at this time. Hopefully after the Hi Desert 250.

There is already a hardware issue; it looks like RAM will not be making a custom Cradle for the 79. Garmin now has a universal “Spine” on the back of all their Hand-Helds. RAM responded with a universal “Spin Cradle” P/N RAM-B-202-GA76U (Ball included) which grabs the Garmin spine with a slip in tongue & grove system. Retail $14. It does not look very sturdy and I would also use a very short Lanyard backup for safety. Also some riders on Facebook have already said they put a Zip-Tie around the 79 and Cradle.

12V Power Cable

The hard wire power cable for all of the above 12V units is the Garmin P/N 010-10082-00. It has Red (with fuse) and Black wires to connect to the bike battery. It also has 2 more data wires that must be taped off.
You can also use the Garmin P/N 010-10085-00 automotive cable with a Cigarette Lighter plug on the source end that must be cut off. There is nothing in the plug but a fuse. A fuse holder must be added near the bike battery.

Non-12V Hand-Held Units (Not Recommended)

Garmin 64x

Identical operation to the 78. Retail price is $300. Comes loaded with topo maps which are not recommended but can be turned off.

ISSUES - Requires 12V to USB Power cord to hard wire to bike. See instructions below.

Garmin 65

Identical operation to the 78. Retail price is $350.

ISSUES - Requires 12V to USB Power cord to hard wire to bike. See instructions below.

Garmin 66S

Identical operation to the 78. Retail price is $400. Identical operation to the 78. Retail price is $400. The 66i (inReach) especially not recommended, use a standalone satellite communicator as described in the 700i below.

ISSUES - Requires 12V to USB Power cord to hard wire to bike. See instructions below.

12V to USB Power Cable

The only option for hard wiring the above 5V GPS units to a bike is to use a cable with an external USB power supply built in to reduce your 12V to the 5V needed for the USB power input. The USB connector on the GPS is not designed for motorcycle vibrations and is prone to fail.
The best prevention is to use the Garmin P/N 010-11131-10 cable with a 90 degree USB connector and run the cable down the unit attaching the cable to the unit with tape, rubber bands, or running it between the unit and the cradle to eliminate any vibration of the wire.

Large Screen Garmin Units

266Cx

This is sort of a crossover-hybrid device. It is a large screen but unlike all the other large screen models below that all have touch screen control, this one has buttons. The down side, they are very pricy at $650.

No review available at this time.

Montana 6x0 Series

For several years the 6x0s have been the only large screen choices. They are all adequate but there are some differences in the various models.

ISSUES - The Main issue for many (older) riders are the thin Track lines on all Montana 6x0s compared to all the Hand-Helds. The only solution is: At the start of a ride, touch "Where To", touch "Tracks", find the Track you are going to follow and touch it, then touch "Go". That Track will now change to a wide Pink line. The downside is that on older units, none of the other optional tracks (HW, EW) will show on the map even though they are “turned On”. Garmin has fixed this on the latest models and you can “Navigate” my main Dark Green Track and still see the splits to a Hard Way Red Tracks.

The other issue on older 6x0 models is that on the Track Manager Page, it only Sorts Tracks by Proximity and cannot be set to Sort Alphanumerically. It is MUCH easier to find and turn On the desired Tracks if they are in Alphanumerical order. With my Track naming method, they will all be grouped together.

Montana 600

This model only Sorts Tracks by Proximity and cannot be set to Sort Alphanumerically. Not recommended.

Montana 610

This model can be set to Sort Tracks on the Track Manager Page Alphanumerically with the latest firmware version.
If your Track Manager page doesn't show the Menu Icon on the left side, update your Firmware. A good economic choice.

Montana 650

This model only Sorts Tracks by Proximity and cannot be set to Sort Alphanumerically. Not recommended.

Montana 680

This model can be set to Sort Tracks on the Track Manager Page Alphanumerically with the latest firmware version.
If your Track Manager page doesn't show the Menu Icon on the left side, update your Firmware.
It also shows ALL other Tracks when Navigating one Track to make it Wide Pink. A good economic choice.

Recommendations

With the 700 and Zumo being the GPS of choice for new units, a 610 or especially a 680 on the used market are great choices to save some money on a very good GPS unit.

Montana 7x0 Series

Montana 700

This is definitely the "State of the Art" Go-To Dual Sport model. One great new feature is it shows ALL other Tracks when Navigating one Track to make it Wide Pink. Another great new feature is that you can view the ON/OFF status and the color of each track on the Track Manager page.

Montana 7x0i

I DO NOT RECOMEND the extra money for the 7x0i (with built-in inReach). Your GPS must be on your handle bars but your satellite communicator must NOT be on your handle bars for obvious safety reasons. Buy a Sat Phone, SPOT, or stand alone inReach for texting and keep it safely in your back pack or Jacket and then buy a standalone GPS of choice for Navigation to mount on your bars.

Montana 7x0 Cradle

The correct Cradle for 7x0s is the Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount P/N 010-12881-08 which comes with the Cradle and the power cable with fuse in the Red wire.
The 010-12881-08 Bundle also comes with a Ball for back of the Cradle.

ISSUES
Several promoters have been having trouble downloading Tracks to these new units, sometimes we can't even see them in File Explorer on our PC. It appears that they have some flaw in their USB transceiver and you must use the OEM USB cable that came with the unit. Always bring your cable to sign-in to be safe.

Even though the Montana 700 is basically the same generation as the Zumo XT, the Track width is not settable as it is with the Zumo. A consideration to get the Zumo over the 700.

But by far the biggest issue (and it is a big one) is another hardware issue. All of the many 600 models have a 12V power input to wire direct to your battery with a simple 2-wire cable. The new 7x0s have a 5V power input requiring an external (USB) power converter in the cable connecting to the bike battery.
But wait, it gets worse -- coming out of the Power Converter block there are two cables. One is an Audio out Coax cable. The other contains the +/- 12V wires plus two Serial In/Out data wires.
There is more -- there is one additional (Grey) wire between the 700 and the Power Converter. It is used to turn the Power Converter “ON” only when the 700 is mounted in the Cradle. As Martha would say; “This is a Good Thing!” This means that there is absolutely no parasitic current draw from the bike battery by the power converter when the 700 is removed.

I believe that the typical length between a GPS and the battery is between 45 and 50 inches. The length of the cable between the 700 and the Power Converter is 38 inches, which puts this monstrosity somewhere under the gas tank. The length of the pigtail going to the battery from the Power Converter is 34 inches, not quite long enough to push the Power Converter forward to behind the headlight. This power cable is a giant POS and a good reason to consider the Zumo.

Montana 7x0 Power Cable fixes

Option 1 (a non-starter), USB Cable
Some riders (especially those who already have a USB power outlet) may find it very tempting to use a standard USB cable to power their Montana at the USB data port or use a USB cable with a Power Converter from the battery to this port. These will work but are very risky. USB connectors are NOT designed for high vibration motorcycle use. The USB connector is REQUIRED to download Tracks. If it fails, the GPS is useless. WARNING, do not use the USB port to power your GPS.

Option 2, Using the 700 OEM Cable
First, position the OEM Power Converter wherever it will fit best. Be sure and Zip-Tie it or tape it to the frame so it does not vibrate or bang.
Easiest location:
If you can find a place to locate the block back under the tank or even closer to the battery, all is great.

  1. Cut off the Coax cable about an inch from the box. Peel back and cut off the shield.
  2. Tape or heat shrink sleeve off the purple wire.
  3. Remove the plastic sleeve from the other cable a few inches from the Battery.
  4. Cut the green wire off short, it is ground.
  5. Cut the Blue & Yellow wires at slightly different lengths and tape or heat shrink sleeve them off.
  6. Now cut the Red and Black wires (relocating fuse) to needed length and connect to the battery. Try to strain relieve the fuse.

A little Harder location:
If the only place to locate the block is up behind the Headlight coiling up the extra cable, it will work but not clean.

  1. Cut off the Coax cable about an inch from the box. Peel back and cut off the shield.
  2. Tape or heat shrink sleeve off the Purple wire.
  3. At the end of the plastic sleeve, cut the green wire off short, it is ground.
  4. Cut the Blue & Yellow wires at slightly different lengths and tape or heat shrink sleeve them off.
  5. Connect the Red and Black wires to the battery, they may have to be lengthened (relocating fuse). Try to strain relieve the fuse. Put a sleeve over the Red and Black wires if they touch the frame.

The "Most Work" Location:
If you must locate the block behind the Headlight but don’t have enough room for the coiled up fat cable, it can be fixed.

  1. Cut off the Blue, Yellow, & Green wires at the end of the sleeve, just leaving them cut. They will be dead.
  2. Connect the Red and Black wires to the battery, they may have to be lengthened (relocating fuse). Try to strain relieve the fuse. Put a sleeve over the Red and Black wires if they touch the frame.
  3. Cut off the Coax at the block, it will be dead so just leave it cut.
  4. Remove a middle section of the plastic Sleeve between the Mount and the Block so that the remaining sleeves would almost touch.
  5. Remove the exposed foil over the Purple wire, it is ground.
  6. Cut the Purple, Blue, and Yellow wires coming from the mount at slightly different lengths and tape or heat shrink sleeve them off.
  7. Cut the dangling Purple, Blue, and Yellow wires at the other sleeve.
  8. Coil up and secure the Red, Black, and Grey wires. If that is not possible, cut the excess out of each and splice back together.

Option 3, Zumo 350 Cable

Purchase a Garmin Zumo 350 power cable P/N Cable 010-11843-01. This Cable has a 22 inch 12V Pigtail so the Converter must be located fairly close to the battery but it is less than half the size of the giant 7x0 Converter and easy to locate. It has a 52 inch 5V cable so you can splice it to the cut off 7x0 5V cable coming from the mount anywhere you want. It is not a good idea to have a cable with a soldered splice flexing, so a good location is under the tank where the cable never flexes.

  1. Connect the Red and Black wires of the Zumo cable to the battery. Try to strain relieve the fuse.
  2. Cut off the Zumo cable at the splice location.
  3. Cut back the plastic sleeve of the Zumo cable exposing the Red and Black wires.
  4. Cut off the 7x0 cable coming from the mount at the desired splice location.
  5. Cut back the plastic sleeve to get to the wires.
  6. Remove the foil over the Purple wire coming from the mount, it is ground.
  7. Cut the Grey, Purple, Blue, and Yellow wires coming from the mount at slightly different lengths and tape or heat shrink sleeve them off.
  8. Splice (and insulate) the Red and Black wires of the two cables and tape or heat shrink sleeve from cable sleeve to cable sleeve.
    If that cable is not available, use the new Zumo XT cable 010-12953-03 but it does not come with a fuse holder and looks like it needs to be sleeved.

Zumo XT

This is a very popular Street/Adv bike unit but WAS NOT a useful Dual Sport unit. The reason: you could not turn Tracks ON/OFF to make them show on the map like all of the others above. It was a real Pig!

However, Garmin recently introduced new updates: Software version 6.30 and GPS Firmware version 9.00.37. If you have a new one or upgraded an old one to these versions, you will end up with a real Track Manager that you can turn ON/OFF each Track and set the Track Colors. But wait; there is more, unlike the skinny Montana tracks, you can set the Track width! Putting Lip Stick on this Pig turned it into a genuine Beauty Queen.

Issues

The Track Manager Page only Sorts by Proximity, and cannot be set to Sort Alphanumerically. A consideration to get the 700 over the Zumo.

You cannot view the ON/OFF status or the Color of each track on the Track Manager page. A consideration to get the 700 over the Zumo.

I have been told by a couple of Zumo users that if you use the Garmin Explorer App, do not link it to your Zumo. It will screw with the Track colors and other problems. On the flip side an “Expert” Zumo user says he knows how to use Explorer.

There is another major issue but only to people like me who ride scouting and exploring recording Tracks for future use. The Zumo cannot be set to Archive Tracks daily like all the other Garmins. You must manually Save your Active Log. I normally copy my Active Log to my PC after every day of riding, but if I ever accidently erase some Tracks on my PC, I can always go back to my GPS Archive folder and find that day's Tracks.

Those issues are irritating but the real Show Stopper is that the Zumo cannot view its own Archive folder even though your PC can view it using File Explorer. As explained in “Downloading Tracks” (Link) on ALL other models, I download a file for each day of a ride into their Archive folder. They then move the file for the day to ride up to the Track Manager to see the Tracks. Since a Zumo can’t read its own Archive folder, the first option would be to download both days into the Track Manager. But since the Zumo will not sort Alphanumerically, they will be all intermingled making it almost impossible to find every Track that must be turned On for the first half of the first day.

I have found a half-ass workaround. I will download both days onto the Zumo data card (you must have one installed). The user can then find the Tracks for the first half of the first day and “check the box” for each one, then “Import” just the checked ones to the Track Manager page, and turn them all On. See “Using Tracks(Link)” for step by step operations on how to do this. A consideration to get the 700 over the Zumo.

Sources for GPS hardware

GPSCity.com is a good source for all Garmin unites, another is TheGPSStore.com. WestMarine.com is probably the best source for Hand-Helds, they have frequent sales. TouraTech-USA.com is good source of RAM Mount components (Balls & Arms)

Issues with other choices

Trail Tech

Many riders are using the Trail Tech Voyager but they do have a couple of big drawbacks. First they screw with my track colors. They admit this flaw and say they will fix it "sometime in the future"! My main track is Dark Green, Hard Ways are Red, and Easy Ways are Dark Magenta which is what is on the map I give you. The track colors can be restored in the Trail Tech and I advise you to learn how to do it after uploading my tracks from your micro SD. The other issue is they do not import my Icons for Way Points like a Gas Pump or Knife & Fork. I had a rider ride right past gas on Mex2Can because all he saw was a stick pin, not a gas pump. A tip if using Trail Tech is; I will put a file for each day on your chip. Treat your chip like the Archive folder in a Garmin. Only upload the file you are riding that day to make turning On/Off the desired Tracks less confusing.

Cell Phones

These are very popular with new riders. First, NEVER EVER use a communication phone that you need to call 911 on your handle bar, that is beyond dumb! Buy a burner phone for $35, it will work fine. Vibration will also destroy the camera especially in I-phones They are a PITA for me, I have to send you an E-Mail with your Tracks holding up the line at Sign-In. Disadvantages are battery life, overheating the screen shut-down, managing tracks, and on and on. Just spend the money on a real GPS.

Standalone Garmin Big inReach

They are great for what they are intended for, communicating location with back home, sending/receiving text, and emergency locator use. They are clearly NOT intended for navigation of saved tacks for a Dual Sport ride. They do not have a Track Manager page or a way to turn On/Off tracks to show on the map. You can get tracks into them but you can't view them on the map like all the other Garmins. Again, great device to have in your jacket but not for Navigation on the Bars.

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